Ningde

This tiny gem run by a married couple has won the hearts of locals courtesy of their mi gao – steamed rice noodle rolls with a choice of filling like ground pork and veggies. Ask for an extra ladle of spiced soy marinade for additional flavour and depth. Also recommended is the plain mi gao without filling. Fuding pork slices in sour spicy soup are made with hand-chopped pork and boast bouncy texture. Expect to share a table at mealtimes.

For over 20 years, this shop has been a landmark of the Wuqu food scene. Since it moved to Ningde, the owner continues to craft everything in Wuqu style. Their bian rou dumplings are tossed in sauce or served in broth, boasting bouncy pork filling and paper-thin translucent skin. Dried cuttlefish and pork rib soup is packed in umami, while slippery taro noodles dressed in soy sauce and pickles seduce with savoury depth and tangy acidity.